Pruning is an essential part of apple tree care and maintenance. Proper pruning helps regulate growth, improves fruit quality, increases sunlight penetration and air circulation into the tree, and reduces pest and disease problems. While the thought of pruning large branches can seem intimidating for beginners, learning proper pruning techniques and following some simple rules can help you keep your apple trees healthy and productive year after year.
When to Prune Apple Trees
Timing is an important factor when pruning apple trees. The best time for major pruning is late winter or very early spring before buds begin to swell and open. Pruning in winter helps easily reveal the structure of the tree, and cuts tend to heal quickly in spring as growth begins. Some additional lighter pruning and maintenance can be done in summer as needed.
Avoid pruning apple trees in fall going into winter, as this can stimulate new growth that will be more susceptible to winter damage. It’s also best to avoid pruning once buds have started opening and growth has begun in spring, as the tree will already be exerting energy into new growth.
Tools Needed for Pruning Apple Trees
Having the right pruning tools on hand will make the job easier and better for the tree. Necessary equipment includes:
- Bypass hand pruners – For smaller diameter branches up to about 1 inch thick
- Lopping shears – For medium diameter branches from 1-2 inches thick
- Pruning saw – For large diameter branches over 2 inches thick
- Pole pruners or loppers – For reaching high branches from the ground
- Ladder – For accessing the tops and interiors of taller trees
- Disinfectant such as isopropyl alcohol – For sanitizing tools between cuts and trees
Make sure all tools are clean, sharp, and in good working condition before beginning any pruning job. Regularly sanitize pruners and saws with disinfectant as you work to prevent spreading disease between branches or trees.
How to Prune an Apple Tree
Follow these steps for pruning an apple tree:
- Remove any dead, damaged or diseased wood. Scan the tree and look for dead, damaged, or diseased branches. Prune these out first by cutting back to healthy wood.
- Remove water sprouts and suckers. Water sprouts are long, leggy vertical shoots that grow straight up from the branches or trunk. Suckers are shoots that grow directly from the base of the trunk. These excess growths sap energy from the rest of the tree and should be pruned off completely.
- Prune for shape and structure. Visualize and prune for an open vase shape with a central leader and outward growing lateral branches spaced apart vertically. Remove inward growing branches, as well as branches that cross or rub together.
- Thin dense growth. Remove excess shoots and smaller inner branches to allow light and air to penetrate the canopy. Focus on thinning congested areas.
- Prune to outward facing buds. Make cuts just above an outward facing bud or branch. This encourages growth in an outward direction.
- Limit height as needed. For small trees or dwarf varieties, prune back the central leader by a few inches to limit vertical growth. Cut back competing leaders to the most dominant leader.
- Clean cuts. Prune each branch cleanly back to the trunk or lateral branch, leaving no stub. Angle cuts slightly down and away from the bud.
- Disinfect tools. Clean and disinfect pruning tools periodically between cuts or trees.
When pruning, follow the general rule of removing no more than 1/4 of the tree canopy each year. Aggressive pruning stresses the tree and can reduce fruiting. Focus pruning efforts on branches that are diseased, damaged, dying or pose a hazard before removing healthy growth.
Types of Apple Tree Pruning Cuts
Three basic types of pruning cuts are used when maintaining and training apple trees:
Thinning Cuts
Thinning cuts remove an entire shoot or branch back to a larger branch, trunk, or the origin of the branch. Make thinning cuts to reduce density, open up the interior canopy, and allow penetration of light and air.
Heading Cuts
Heading cuts remove the end portions of a shoot or branch, cutting back to a bud and shortening the growth. Use heading cuts to shorten branches and stimulate buds further down on the branch.
Pinching Cuts
Pinching cuts involve removing just the very tips of new shoots, either by pinching off the tender terminal growth by hand or making a tiny pruning snip. Pinching the tips of new water sprouts and shoots in spring and summer helps direct growth without major pruning.
Pruning Young Apple Trees
Pruning is especially important in the first few years after planting new apple trees to establish proper structure and form. Follow these tips:
- Select one central leader and remove competing vertical shoots to establish the central trunk.
- Choose 3-5 wide-angled lateral branches spaced out along the central leader to form the main scaffold branches. Prune off other secondary branches.
- Head back the central leader by about 1/3 to encourage lateral branching and limit height.
- Prune side branches back by 1/3 to 1/2 of their length to stimulate growth farther down the branches.
Pruning Bearing Apple Trees
For mature, fruit-bearing apple trees, focus pruning efforts on the following:
- Maintain the vase-shaped structure by removing inward growing branches.
- Head back vigorous upright shoots on scaffold branches.
- Thin congested branching, especially in the interior canopy.
- Remove suckers and water sprouts.
- Shorten branches that overextend and shade other branches.
- Remove low growth for easier access and picking.
Aim to open up the canopy without excessive thinning that could reduce the crop. Target branches with narrow crotch angles for removal to minimize the risk of breakage under a heavy fruit crop.
When to Stop Pruning Apple Trees
Make sure to finish any major pruning well before buds begin to swell and open in late winter or very early spring. Avoid pruning once growth has started and the tree begins leafing out, as this can shock the tree and interfere with the growth cycle. Light corrective pruning and pinching of new shoots can continue into early summer but should slow down as the tree begins directing energy into the ripening fruit crop. No pruning should be done mid to late summer until dormancy returns in winter.
Pruning Neglected Apple Trees
For old, overgrown apple trees that haven’t been pruned in many years, the task can seem overwhelming. Follow these steps to renovate neglected trees:
- Start by removing all dead, diseased and damaged wood. Clear out the clutter of broken and hanging branches first.
- Remove clusters of watersprouts and dense shoots to let light into the interior canopy.
- Head back overextended branches to stimulate regrowth closer to the trunk or main branch.
- Thin out competing vertical shoots, leaving the healthiest central leader.
- Remove the largest branches in stages over 2-3 years rather than all at once.
- Cut higher to thin the upper portion of the tree first, then make lower structural cuts in subsequent years.
With consistent, gradual pruning over several years, old neglected apple trees can be rejuvenated and returned to productive health.
Signs Your Apple Tree Needs Pruning
Watch for these issues, which are signals it’s time to prune your apple tree:
- Excessive shading and reduced fruiting on lower inner branches.
- Crossing or rubbing branches.
- Overcrowding and congestion in certain areas.
- Long, leggy shoots heading upward.
- Branches with narrow, weak crotch angles.
- Dead, damaged, or diseased wood.
- An overall lack of light and air penetrating the canopy.
Pruning Young vs. Old Apple Trees
Pruning strategies differ slightly depending on the age of the tree:
Young Apple Trees
- Establish shape and structure through heading cuts.
- Choose and train strong scaffold branches.
- Head leader to encourage branching and limit height.
Mature, Bearing Trees
- Maintain existing structure and form.
- Thin overcrowded areas.
- Remove inward growing and problem branches.
- Head to redirect growth, but avoid over-thinning.
Old, Neglected Trees
- Clear deadwood and brushy clusters.
- Thin competing shoots to establish new leader.
- Head back overgrown branches.
- Gradually remove largest branches over time.
Pruning Tools for Apple Trees
Having the right tools makes pruning easier and safer for your apple trees. Useful pruning equipment includes:
| Tool | Uses |
|---|---|
| Bypass hand pruners | Branches up to 1 inch diameter |
| Lopping shears | Branches 1-2 inches diameter |
| Pruning saw | Branches over 2 inches diameter |
| Pole pruners | High branches |
| Ladder | Reaching high interior branches |
Invest in quality tools such as sharpening systems, sanitizing wipes, and storage tote bags to maintain your equipment for many pruning seasons.
When to Prune Other Fruit Trees
While late winter is the best time to prune apple trees, the ideal timing differs slightly for other fruit trees:
- Cherry – Prune in late summer to avoid risk of infection.
- Peach/Nectarine – Prune in winter before buds swell.
- Pear – Prune in early spring before bud break.
- Plum – Prune in early to mid-summer to reduce disease risk.
- Apricot – Prune in late winter but avoid early spring pruning.
- Fig – Prune aggressively in winter before spring growth.
- Persimmon – Prune in late winter or early in the dormant season.
- Pomegranate – Prune in late winter before buds break.
Key Pruning Tips for Apple Trees
Follow these key tips for success when pruning your apple trees:
- Prune annually for productive trees.
- Always sanitize tools between trees or branches.
- Prune lightly rather than heavily for best growth.
- Cut back to just above an outward facing bud.
- Remove inward growing branches and crossovers.
- Don’t prune once spring growth has started.
- Schedule major pruning for late winter dormancy.
Common Apple Tree Pruning Mistakes
Avoid these common mistakes when pruning apple trees:
- Over-thinning the interior and upper canopy.
- Pruning too late once leaves emerge.
- Making cuts too close to the trunk without a branch collar.
- Leaving branch stubs rather than pruning back to the branch junction.
- Removing too much older wood that bears fruit.
- Failing to remove vertical water sprouts and suckers.
- Forgetting to sanitize pruning tools between trees.
Conclusion
Pruning is an essential annual task for the health and productivity of apple trees. While it may seem intimidating, especially for large, old trees, following proper technique and taking it in gradual steps each year can rejuvenate even the most overgrown tree. Patience and persistence will lead to success. Keep tools sharp and sanitized, prune lightly rather than heavily, and stick to the proper times of year for apple tree pruning.