As Thanksgiving approaches, many home cooks are starting to think about how to prepare the perfect turkey. One of the key decisions to make is whether to rub the turkey skin with butter or oil before roasting. Both butter and oil can help create crispy, flavorful turkey skin. But which one is better?
The purpose of rubbing turkey with fat
The reason cooks rub butter or oil on a turkey before roasting is to help promote browning and crisping of the skin. Fat acts as a protective barrier, keeping the delicate skin moist and preventing it from drying out in the oven. As the turkey roasts, the fat melts and bastes the skin, encouraging caramelization and crisping. The rendered fat also drips down into the pan, keeping the breast and dark meat juicy and flavorful.
Butter and oil work in slightly different ways:
- Butter: Pure butter contains milk solids and water, which help steam the skin and make it extra crispy. The milk proteins also undergo the Maillard reaction, contributing flavor, aroma, and browning.
- Oil: Neutral oils like canola or vegetable oil don’t add as much flavor. But they can reach a higher smoke point than butter, potentially leading to deeper browning and crunchiness.
Factors to consider when choosing butter or oil
Here are some key factors to help decide whether butter or oil will give better results:
1. Roast method
If roasting the turkey at a high temperature (above 375°F), oil may be the better choice since it can withstand higher heat before smoking. If roasting more gently, butter is likely fine.
2. Overall flavor
Butter will provide richer, more complex flavor due to its milk solids. Oil is neutral-tasting.
3. Skin texture
Butter’s milk proteins make the skin blister and bubble more than oil, potentially leading to an ultra-crispy texture.
4. Moistness
Both butter and oil baste the turkey well. Go with oil if exceptionally juicy meat is the priority.
5. Herb flavor
Butter is great for carrying other flavorings like garlic, herbs, citrus, or spices. The milk solids pick up these flavors beautifully.
6. Specialty ingredients
Compound butters made with ingredients like honey, maple syrup, miso, or harissa can provide unique flavors. Flavored oils don’t offer the same opportunity.
7. Dietary restrictions
For dairy-free cooking, oil is the better option. Vegetable oil is also kosher for Passover when butter is not permitted.
8. Ease of coating
Softened butter can be easier to evenly coat the turkey skin, getting into all the nooks and crannies. Oil can sometimes pool unevenly.
Pros and cons of butter
Here are the main benefits that butter provides when rubbing turkeys before roasting:
Pros:
- Adds rich, creamy flavor
- Helps skin get ultra crispy
- Can be flavored with herbs, citrus, garlic, etc.
- Soft texture makes it easy to coat skin evenly
Cons:
- Lower smoke point than oil (not ideal for high-heat roasting)
- Not suitable for people avoiding dairy
Pros and cons of oil
Here are the main benefits that oil provides when rubbing turkeys before roasting:
Pros:
- Withstands higher roasting heat
- Less likely to burn than butter
- Doesn’t add flavor (can let other seasonings shine)
- Dairy-free and kosher for Passover
Cons:
- More neutral flavor
- Can pool unevenly on skin
- Doesn’t blister and bubble skin as effectively as butter
How much to apply
A good rule of thumb is to rub around 1/4 cup of butter or oil per pound of turkey. So for a 16-pound turkey, use about 1 cup total. Focus on rubbing the fat evenly across the breasts, legs, thighs, and wings.
Melt the butter first so it’s easy to brush on. Or microwave the oil briefly so it’s more fluid. Use a cooking brush or your hands to thoroughly coat the skin.
When to rub on the fat
Apply the butter or oil right before putting the turkey in the oven. If it’s applied too far in advance, the skin can start to get slimy or soggy. Brush on any herbs, garlic, or spice mixes at the same time.
For best results, let the coated turkey sit at room temperature while the oven preheats. This allows the skin to partially dry out – about 30-60 minutes.
Other tips for maximizing crispiness
Along with rubbing the turkey with fat, here are some other tips to get ultra crispy skin:
- Air dry the turkey uncovered in the fridge for 24-48 hours which dehydrates the skin.
- Avoid basting or tenting with foil, which causes skin to steam and soften.
- Crank up the heat to 450°F for at least 30 minutes which drives moisture from the skin.
- Let the turkey rest before carving so the skin firms back up.
Conclusions
Both butter and oil can help achieve crispy, flavorful turkey skin. Here are some final recommendations based on different goals:
For maximum crispness:
Use butter, which promotes bubbling and blistering of the skin.
For easiest application:
Soften the butter first for even coating.
For added flavor:
Butter provides richer taste, especially when mixed with herbs, citrus, garlic, etc.
For moistness:
Oil bastes well with less risk of burning.
For high heat roasting:
Opt for oil, which can withstand over 375°F without smoking.
For dietary needs:
Use oil for dairy-free or kosher cooking.
Ultimately there’s no wrong choice – both butter and oil will lead to delicious turkey at your Thanksgiving table. The turkey will likely get rave reviews no matter which you use. Just decide whether flavor or maximum crispiness is the priority to determine if butter or oil is best for your turkey rub.