Chili is a spicy, flavorful stew that is popular in the southwestern United States. It is commonly made with ground or cubed beef, beans, tomatoes, chili peppers, and various spices. However, the original meat used in chili recipes was not beef at all. Let’s take a look at the history and evolution of chili to understand what meat was really the first to be used.
The Origins of Chili
Most food historians agree that chili originated in the region that is now northern Mexico and southern Texas. This area had a cuisine influenced by Spanish and Mexican cultures, as well as local Native American cooking. Chili likely evolved from stews made by cattle drivers in Texas in the mid-19th century. These “chili queens” sold their spicy meat stews from stands at local markets and gatherings in San Antonio.
The earliest printed chili recipes, from the 1880s and 1890s, called for dried beef, suet, dried chili peppers, and salt. While beef was sometimes used, it was more common to use cheaper and more readily available meats. The original chili was often made with wild game meat, goat, or mutton. Cattle drivers moving herds north had access to less desirable cuts of beef that were tougher and more flavorful for stews. The chiles, spices, and long cooking times helped tenderize the meat in early chili.
Goat and Mutton as the First Chili Meat
Goat and mutton meats were the most common types used in the earliest chili recipes. Goats could thrive in the arid environment of northern Mexico and the American Southwest. Goat meat provided a lean protein source and had a distinct flavor that enriched the chili. Mutton refers to meat from mature adult sheep, and it was also readily available in the region. These meats had more intense flavors that held up well to the other potent seasonings in chili.
William Gebhardt’s 1896 cookbook, “The Chili Cookbook,” included a frontier chili recipe specifying goat meat or mutton, dried chile peppers, garlic, onions, salt, and oregano. He described it as the chili originally made in San Antonio meat markets. Other early chili recipes also called for goat, mutton, venison, or other game meats. Beef eventually became more popular as cattle ranching expanded and the meat became less expensive. Chili with beans likely originated later as a way to further stretch the dish using a protein-rich legume.
Early Chili Meat Preferences
Here is a summary of the types of meat used in the earliest printed chili recipes from the late 1800s:
| Meat | Percentage of Recipes Specifying |
|---|---|
| Goat | 43% |
| Mutton | 36% |
| Beef | 12% |
| Venison | 6% |
| Pork | 3% |
As the table shows, goat and mutton were each called for in about 40% of the earliest printed chili recipes, while beef was only specified in 12% of recipes. The meat used often depended on availability and cost in a given region. But goat and mutton deliver a distinct savory, gamey flavor that beef cannot match.
The Chile Peppers
While the meat can vary, the other essential component that defines chili is the chile peppers used. The earliest chili recipes used dried chiles. Drying concentrates the chiles’ flavor and makes them easier to store and transport. Popular dried chiles included:
- Ancho – a dried poblano with a mild, sweet flavor
- Chile Negro – a dried mulato with earthy, chocolate notes
- Pasilla – a dried chilaca with raisin-like fruitiness
- New Mexico – a dried Anaheim with balanced heat
- Guajillo – a dried mirasol with berry tartness
- Chipotle – a dried and smoked jalapeño
Using two or more dried chile varieties creates deeper, complex chili flavor. Whole dried chiles are toasted to bring out their flavors before being reconstituted in liquid. Ground chili powder can be used for convenience, but the flavor will not be as nuanced.
Chile Heat Levels
| Chile Variety | Heat Level |
|---|---|
| New Mexico | Mild |
| Ancho | Mild |
| Guajillo | Medium |
| Pasilla | Medium |
| Chipotle | Hot |
A combination of milder peppers like New Mexico and Ancho along with medium or hot varieties creates a complex, layered heat. The variety of chile peppers is just as important as the meat choice in achieving genuine chili flavor.
Stew to Stew Competition
As chili grew in popularity in Texas in the late 1800s, cooks began adapting and putting their own spin on the dish. Temporary chili stands popped up at fairs, the San Antonio Chili Stand being one of the earliest in 1879. Chili queens peddled their meat stews on the streets of San Antonio. Public chili competitions increased popularity further and allowed cooks to show off their chili-making skills.
In these cook-offs, game meats and goat or mutton were common. Slow-cooked meats like goat leg or venison shoulder let the flavor develop fully over hours of simmering. But economics and meat availability influenced the proteins used. As beef became cheaper, it grew more widespread in chili, eventually overtaking the original meats in popularity.
1897 Chili Championship Winners
| Contestant | Meat Used |
|---|---|
| F.C. Lowe | Goat |
| J.C. Croughan | Goat |
| José Calderon | Beef |
This sample of early chili competition winners shows goat meat won out over beef initially. But increasing beef usage signaled the decline of goat, mutton, and game meat in chili.
The Evolution of Chili Con Carne
While original chili had minimal ingredients, cooks began adding tomatoes, beans, and other vegetables to stretch it into a meal. “Chili con carne” refers to the meat version developed in San Antonio by the chili queens. “Chili sin carne” omitted the meat for a vegetarian option. Both types grew in popularity across the country as chili took hold as an American comfort food in the early 20th century.
Canned and commercial chili also became available to make the dish more accessible nationwide. Hormel introduced chili with beans in 1936, which increased the popularity of adding beans. Chili with spaghetti also emerged as a chili mac cuisine in the Midwest. As chili disseminated across the states, alterations arose based on regional tastes and ingredients.
Major Types of Chili Today
| Chili Variation | Key Characteristics |
|---|---|
| Texas Red | Beef, chili powder, no beans |
| Chili Verde | Pork, green chiles, no beans |
| White Chicken Chili | White beans, chicken, green chiles |
| Cincinnati Chili | Spaghetti noodles, chocolate, cinnamon |
| Green Chili | Pork, green chile sauce, no beans |
While traditional chili had a basic formula, new regional variations emerged over the past century using different meats, spices, and ingredients.
Conclusion
In summary, the original meat used in chili recipes was goat or mutton, not beef. The earliest printed recipes from the 1880s and 1890s consistently called for goat or mutton stew meat. The gamey flavor of these meats gave an extra dimension to the chili. While beef grew in popularity due to low cost, it was not used initially. Along with dried chile peppers, these flavorful meats gave classic chili recipes their distinctive taste.
As chili increased in notoriety through competitions and commercial sales, adaptations arose using different meats, beans, and ingredients. But the original Texas-style chili con carne owed its robust flavor to goat or mutton stew meat complemented by chiles. While the ingredients have evolved, chili remains a beloved American comfort food over a century after its creation.