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When did clothes become gendered?

Clothing and gender norms have been intertwined for centuries, but the differentiation of male and female attire is a relatively recent phenomenon in human history. For most of civilization, gender was not a major factor in clothing choices. So when did our modern concept of “men’s fashion” and “women’s fashion” actually emerge?

Clothing in Ancient Cultures

In ancient cultures like Egypt, Greece, and Rome, clothes were loose-fitting robes that both men and women wore in a similar style. Wealthy citizens often wore elaborate drapery and jewelry as status symbols, but gender differences in clothing were subtle. The most significant distinction was that married women covered their hair with veils.

Some key facts about ancient gendered clothing:

  • Ancient Egyptian men and women wore wraparound garments called kalasiris.
  • In Ancient Greece, a common outfit was the chiton, a type of tunic worn by both genders.
  • Roman men wore tunics under togas, while women wore stolas or gowns under palla shawls.
  • Wealthy Roman women wore elaborate hairstyles, makeup, and jewelry to display status.

So in the ancient Western world, clothes were only loosely differentiated by gender. Social status and marital roles were much more important signifiers.

The Middle Ages

During the Middle Ages in Europe, clothing styles remained similar for men and women but became more differentiated by class. The rich nobility wore elegant robes and gowns made from luxurious fabrics like velvet, silk, and fur. Peasants wore simple tunics, cloaks, and hoods made from coarse wool or linen.

Some key facts about medieval gendered clothing:

  • Men’s tunics were shorter and narrower, while women’s tunics were ankle-length.
  • Wealthy women wore elaborate headcoverings like wimples and veils.
  • Noblewomen wore gowns with long trailing sleeves.
  • Wealthy men wore hose, tunics, and cloaks embellished with fur.

So medieval gender distinctions in clothing emerged from class differences. The rich used fashion to convey their status rather than strictly gender differences.

The Renaissance and Baroque Eras

During the Renaissance, fashion became more expressive and differentiated by gender, especially among the upper classes. New innovations in clothing construction allowed for tighter silhouettes that accentuated masculine and feminine physical traits.

  • Women wore structural undergarments like the farthingale to create a wide hip silhouette.
  • Men wore padded doublets and breeches to broaden shoulders and emphasize leg muscles.
  • Extremely low necklines and snug bodices became fashionable for women.
  • Men wore tight hose to show off muscular calves.

In the Baroque era, exaggerated fashions further amplified gender differences. Huge wigs, makeup, and bright colors were prevalent for both men and women of the aristocracy.

The 18th Century

During the 18th century, men’s and women’s fashion diverged into distinct styles we would recognize as gendered clothing today.

For men, the three-piece suit emerged as the pinnacle of men’s fashion:

  • Breeches or pantaloons
  • A waistcoat or vest
  • A tailored jacket

For women, voluminous dresses with tight corsets became popular:

  • Loose chemises
  • Corsets to slim the waist
  • Petticoats and panniers to extend the hips
  • Elaborate gowns and skirts

These starkly different silhouettes reinforced new gender roles in the Enlightenment era that emphasized reason for men and frailty for women.

The Victorian Era

In the Victorian era, gender distinctions in attire reached peak levels. Queen Victoria solidified separate spheres and manners for men and women.

Victorian women’s fashion was extremely restrictive:

  • Corsets squeezed waists down to 14 inches.
  • Crinolines widened skirts up to 6 feet across.
  • Young, unmarried women wore pale colors.

Meanwhile, the suit became even more entrenched as standard men’s business attire:

  • Dark, neutrally colored suits
  • Top hats or bowlers
  • Canes as functional accessories

This era cemented the gender divide in Western fashion at its most extreme point historically.

The 20th Century

In the early 20th century, women’s clothing began to loosen up as they joined the workforce during World War I:

  • Shorter, narrower skirts for mobility
  • Smaller hats
  • 简单的线条

But it wasn’t until the flapper era of the 1920s that androgynous styles emerged:

  • Slim, straight, boxy silhouettes
  • Short bob hairstyles
  • Minimal makeup and jewelry
  • First trousers for women

In the postwar decades, Christian Dior’s New Look repopularized hyper-feminine styles with tiny waists and full skirts. Meanwhile, the male suit persisted with minimal change.

The counterculture revolution of the 1960s and 70s broke down gender barriers:

  • Unisex trends like mod, hippie, and disco looks
  • Bold patterns, colors, and prints for men
  • Short skirts, trouser suits, and pants for women
  • Long hair for men

But since the 1980s, gender norms have resurged with a renewed emphasis on masculine and feminine body shaping.

Conclusion

While ancient peoples did not strongly differentiate male and female clothing, gender distinctions emerged in Western fashion during the Renaissance and Baroque eras. The 18th century marked the beginning of starkly different gendered silhouettes. Victorian ideals cemented exaggerated gender expression through fashion. Although the 20th century saw moments of androgyny and gender fluidity in style, the concept of gendered clothing persists today more than ever. But the categories of “men’s fashion” and “women’s fashion” are not fixed – they fluctuate over time as society’s gender beliefs evolve.