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Why are black and white cookies a New York thing?

Black and white cookies, sometimes called half-moon cookies, are a classic New York City treat. These cookies have a distinct black and white frosted sides, resembling a half-moon shape. But why are these cookies so closely associated with New York City?

The History of Black and White Cookies in New York

Black and white cookies originated from Germany and Austria. In the late 19th century, Jewish immigrants brought recipes for the cookies to New York City. The cookies became popular in Jewish bakeries in neighborhoods like the Lower East Side.

Initially, the cookies were called half-moon cookies because of their distinct half black, half white appearance. The black side is made from chocolate frosting while the white side is a vanilla frosting.

The black and white cookie got its current iconic name sometime in the 1930s. The treat had become so popular in New York City that it was simply known as the “black and white.”

How Black and White Cookies Became a New York Staple

There are several key reasons why black and white cookies became so closely tied to New York City culture:

  • Ethnic diversity – Jewish immigrants popularized the cookie, but it gained widespread appeal across ethnic groups in the city.
  • Bakery tradition – New York City has a storied bakery culture and black and white cookies were seen as an iconic bakery treat.
  • Media portrayal – Black and white cookies were frequently portrayed in books, movies, and TV shows as a quintessential New York food.
  • Uniquely recognizable – The striking black and white frosted sides makes them visually distinctive from other cookies.
  • Cheap cost – Black and white cookies were an affordable bakery treat accessible to many New Yorkers.

As black and white cookies became available across bakeries around the city, they quickly embedded themselves in New York culture. The cookies became a food closely associated with New York identity.

Where to Find the Best Black and White Cookies in NYC

Here are some top places to find authentic and delicious black and white cookies in New York City:

Glaser’s Bake Shop

Located on the Upper East Side, Glaser’s Bake Shop has been offering baked goods since 1902. Their black and white cookies have a loyal following, with their iconic look of chocolate and vanilla frosting.

William Greenberg Desserts

This kosher bakery on the Upper East Side is famous for its black and white cookies. Food critics often rate them as the best in the city, citing their perfect balance of flavors.

Veselka

This East Village Ukrainian diner has served black and white cookies 24 hours a day since 1954. Their version has a distinct vanilla flavor featuring vanilla bean specks in the frosting.

Zabar’s

No list of New York bakeries is complete without Zabar’s on the Upper West Side. Their black and white cookies are made from scratch in-house and have been a customer favorite for decades.

Eilenberger’s Bake Shop

This old-school bakery in Jackson Heights, Queens has been serving German and Austrian baked goods since the 1930s. Their version of black and white cookies evokes the treat’s immigrant origins.

The Role of Black and White Cookies in Pop Culture

As black and white cookies became established in New York City culture, they also became entrenched in the city’s pop culture landscape. The cookies have been prominently featured in movies, TV, books, songs, and art.

Seinfeld

In the classic sitcom Seinfeld, black and white cookies were featured in several episodes as a favorite snack of Jerry, Elaine, George, and Kramer. In one scene, Jerry and friends have an extended debate about the racial implications of the cookie’s name.

Mad Men

An episode of the TV show Mad Men showed Betty Draper making black and white cookies with her children. The cookies represent her attempting to be the ideal 1960s housewife.

Smashing Pumpkins

The alternative rock band Smashing Pumpkins referenced black and white cookies in their 1995 hit “1979,” singing “With the vampires once again/The black and white cookie never stops.”

The Mysteries of Laura

In this former NBC detective series, the main character Laura was shown frequently snacking on black and white cookies, highlighting her status as a New Yorker.

Broad City

In Comedy Central’s hit show Broad City, one episode showed main characters Abbi and Ilana desperately seeking out black and white cookies across New York after smoking marijuana gave them intense food cravings.

Are Black and White Cookies Found Outside of New York?

While black and white cookies originated in New York and remain closely tied to the city, they have also become available around the U.S. Here are some places you can find versions of black and white cookies:

City Bakery
Los Angeles Van Leeuwen
Chicago Sprinkles Cupcakes
Boston Flour Bakery
Washington DC Baked & Wired
Houston Common Bond Cafe and Bakery

While black and white cookie offerings have expanded outside of New York, most agree that New York still offers the very best versions. There’s something special about eating a freshly baked black and white cookie from an iconic NYC bakery that can’t be easily replicated.

How To Make Black and White Cookies at Home

Want to get a taste of New York black and white cookies from your own kitchen? Here is a classic recipe to make black and white cookies at home:

Ingredients

  • 2 1/4 cups all purpose flour
  • 1 tsp baking powder
  • 1/4 tsp salt
  • 3/4 cup unsalted butter, softened
  • 1 cup granulated sugar
  • 1 egg
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 2 tsp vanilla extract
  • 1/3 cup milk
  • For cookie glaze:
    • 2 cups confectioners’ sugar
    • 1 tsp vanilla
    • 2-4 tbsp milk or water
  • For chocolate glaze:
    • 1 1/2 cups confectioners’ sugar
    • 3 tbsp cocoa powder
    • 2-4 tbsp milk or water

Instructions

  1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper.
  2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking powder and salt. Set aside.
  3. Using a stand mixer or hand mixer, beat butter and sugar together until light and fluffy, about 2-3 minutes.
  4. Add in egg, egg yolk, vanilla and milk. Beat until combined.
  5. Gradually add dry ingredients to wet ingredients and mix just until combined. Do not overmix.
  6. Place dough into a piping bag fitted with a round tip. Pipe cookies into 2 inch circular shapes onto prepared baking sheets, spaced about 1 inch apart.
  7. Bake for 15-17 minutes, until lightly browned on the bottom. Allow to cool completely.
  8. Make glazes: For vanilla glaze, whisk confectioners’ sugar, vanilla and 2 tbsp milk together until smooth. For chocolate glaze, whisk confectioners’ sugar, cocoa powder and 2 tbsp milk together. Add more milk as needed to reach a drizzling consistency.
  9. Spread half of each cookie with vanilla glaze and the other half with chocolate glaze. Allow glazes to set, about 30 minutes.

Enjoy your fresh homemade black and white cookies! Be sure to share with friends and family to spread the delicious New York tradition.

The Future of Black and White Cookies

While black and white cookies have been a New York staple for over a century, their future remains bright. Here are some trends in black and white cookies to look out for:

New twists

Bakeries are putting creative spins on black and white cookies, like versions with cookie butter, funfetti, chocolate chip, and more.

Vegan

With the rise of veganism, New York bakeries are offering eggless and dairy-free black and white cookies to accommodate more dietary needs.

Artisanal

Black and white cookies are getting an upscale treatment at gourmet bakeries, with high-end ingredients like European style butter, specialty flours, and single-origin chocolate.

Nostalgic appeal

After a difficult few years in New York due to COVID-19, many see black and white cookies as a comforting taste of normalcy and happier times.

Beyond NYC

As black and white cookies expand across the U.S., more regional renditions will emerge putting new spins on the classic cookie.

Conclusion

For over a century, the black and white cookie has remained an iconic baked good inexorably linked to New York City. The treat’s journey from 19th century Jewish bakeries to a mass-market favorite enjoyed citywide demonstrates how ethnic diversity shaped modern New York food culture. While delicious black and white cookies can now be enjoyed around the U.S., New York still remains the best place to bite into a freshly baked original. Each time a New Yorker takes a taste, they experience a little edible history of their city.