Organ meats, also known as offal, were once a staple part of the American diet. Liver, kidneys, brains, tongue, tripe, sweetbreads and other variety meats were commonly found on dinner tables across the country. However, over the past century, organ meat consumption has steadily declined. Now, organ meats are often viewed with distaste and avoided by the majority of Americans.
So what caused this dramatic shift away from organ meats? There are a few key factors that contributed to the change:
The rise of industrial farming
In the early 20th century, small-scale animal farming began to be replaced by large, industrial operations. On family farms, animals were slaughtered individually and all parts were consumed. But in massive meat packing plants, carcasses were processed en masse. Efficient systems were developed to save only the choicest cuts of meat. Unwanted organ meats piled up as waste products. Slaughterhouses began donating or selling organs cheaply to be used as inputs for products like pet food. This fundamentally changed the economics around organ meats, making them seem like lower value “by-products” instead of integral parts of an animal.
Increased meat availability
As industrial farming drove down the price of prime cuts of meat, organ meats went from being everyday foods to rare delicacies. Muscle meats like chicken breast and steak became affordable staples for the middle class. Americans started to see organs as unnecessary parts to avoid rather than key ingredients.
Food safety scares
In the 1900s, unsafe food handling practices resulted in some deadly outbreaks linked to organ meats. Contaminated liver sausage killed 114 people in Chicago in 1928. Tainted kidneys led to a cholera epidemic in Scotland in the 1970s. These incidents scared consumers away from organ meats.
Nutrition misconceptions
Organ meats are actually packed with essential vitamins, minerals, fats and proteins. But many Americans view them as dangerous sources of cholesterol due to misguided nutrition advice. The rise of low-fat dieting led organ meats to be wrongly vilified.
Cultural perceptions
As organ meats fell out of favor, they took on certain negative cultural meanings. Educated middle and upper class populations turned up their noses at organ meats, viewing them as unsophisticated “peasant foods.” Immigrant groups and marginalized communities continued organ meat traditions, adding to their stigma. By the late 1900s, most Americans had come to see organs as bizarre, unclean or risky.
When did organ meat consumption decline?
Organ meats remained common on American plates through the early 1900s. But by the mid 20th century, their popularity was waning. Here is a timeline showing key events related to the organ meat decline:
1900-1920
– Small family farms begin to be replaced by large meatpackers like Armour and Swift.
– Refrigerated railcars allow transport of meat from Chicago slaughterhouses across the country.
– US per capita meat consumption increases rapidly.
1920s
– Assembly line slaughtering becomes widespread. Organ meats are increasingly treated as by-products.
– 1928: Contaminated liver sausage kills 114 people in Chicago.
1930s
– Low cost muscle meats become diet staples for more Americans.
– Organ meats start to be seen as “poor people food.”
1940s
– Wartime rationing limits availability of organ meats.
– Rising incomes allow more consumers to choose muscle meats.
1950s
– Fast food hamburgers gain popularity, anchoring meat preferences.
– Low fat dieting starts vilifying organ meats for cholesterol content.
1960-1970s
– Food safety scares like cholera outbreaks linked to kidneys.
– Convenience culture and squeamishness deter organ consumption.
– Immigrant groups like Hispanics maintain organ meat dishes.
1980s-today
– Organ meats increasingly rare in grocery stores and restaurants.
– Seen as bizarre novelty foods by most Americans.
How much did organ meat consumption decline?
The downward trend in organ meat eating is clear in USDA food availability data. Here is a look at how much key organ meats have dropped in the American diet:
| Organ Meat | Pounds available per capita 1909 | Pounds available per capita 2019 |
|---|---|---|
| Liver | 5.5 lbs | 0.5 lbs |
| Heart | 3.5 lbs | 0.5 lbs |
| Kidneys | 2.4 lbs | 0.1 lbs |
| Tongue | 1.7 lbs | 0.1 lbs |
| Sweetbreads | 1.1 lbs | No data |
In 1909, organ meats made up a hearty 10.5 pounds of the 66 pound per capita meat supply. But by 2019, they had dwindled to just 1.2 pounds of the 222 pound total. From favorite foods to forgotten foods, organ meats have seen consumption drop by 90% or more.
Which groups still eat organ meats?
While most Americans eschew organ meats today, they do remain popular in certain regional and ethnic cuisines. Here are some populations that still embrace organ meat dishes:
Hispanic Americans
Hispanic immigrants brought organ meat traditions like menudo tripe stew and lengua beef tongue tacos. Organ meats remain integral to Mexican and Central American food culture.
Asian Americans
In Chinese, Vietnamese and Filipino cuisine, liver, kidneys, intestines and other organs are commonly used. Items like soup dumplings and hot pot often contain tripe or tendon.
Middle Eastern Americans
Organ meat dishes like kibbeh spleen pies, kefteh kidney meatballs and shawarma liver wraps remain popular.
German Americans
Traditional recipes for sausages, terrines and offal-based stews are kept alive by German populations.
Jewish Americans
Kosher laws specify the careful handling and preparation of organ meats. Dishes like chopped liver, sweetbread fritters and tongue continue to be served.
Soul food traditions
Southern and black American soul food makes delicious use of organs in dishes like fried gizzards, chitterlings and liver and onions.
Cajun cuisine
Spicy Cajun cooking includes organs like gizzards, kidneys and boudin blood sausage.
Why should Americans consider eating organ meats again?
Despite their unsavory reputation, reintroducing organ meats into our diets could have some real benefits. Here are a few reasons to give these under-appreciated parts another chance:
Sustainability
Using the whole animal, nose to tail, reduces food waste. With only 1-3% of beef cows consumed, eating organs makes ethical and environmental sense.
Affordability
Pound for pound, organ meats cost far less than prime cuts. At $2-3 per pound, they offer budget-friendly nutrition.
Nutrition
Ounce for ounce, organ meats pack way more nutrients than muscle meat. Livers, kidneys and brains are loaded with vitamins, minerals and healthy fats.
Flavor
When properly prepared, the rich depth of flavors organ meats offer is incomparable. Embracing new taste experiences could expand our palates.
Tradition
Organ meats are an edible link to our ancestors and food heritage. Keeping old traditions alive connects us to our culinary past.
Environment
Grazing livestock on grasslands provides environmental benefits over intensive feedlot systems. Eating the whole animal utilizes this ecology.
Conclusion
Although organ meats may never again be everyday American fare, reopening our minds and mouths to these underappreciated animal parts offers much potential. With an openness to new flavors, a dash of creativity in recipes, and an appreciation of tradition, we can rediscover the appeal of organs that our great-grandparents knew so well. This forgotten food could help shape a sustainable and ethical future of meat eating in America.