Finding a bra that fits properly can be a frustrating experience for many women. Ill-fitting bras are one of the most common clothing-related complaints, with studies suggesting that as many as 80% of women wear the wrong size bra. There are many potential reasons why bras don’t seem to fit right, from inaccurate measuring methods to changing breast shape over time. Understanding the common bra fit issues and their causes is the first step to finding your perfect fit.
Common bra fit problems
The band feels too tight
One of the most frequent bra complaints is that the band feels too tight, digging into the skin and ribs. This is often a sign that the bra band is too small. The band should fit firmly on the loosest hook to allow for the band to stretch over time. If it already feels tight on a new bra, it will quickly become uncomfortable.
Other causes of a too-tight band include:
- Incorrect measuring: Not measuring under the bust or rounding down on the band measurement
- Band stretching out: Bras stretch over time so an older bra may fit more loosely
- Breathing issues: You may be more comfortable in a looser band if you have trouble with deep breathing
- Weight changes: Gaining or losing weight can affect your underbust measurement
The cups are too small
Spilling out of the cups is one of the most obvious indicators of a too-small bra cup size. Other symptoms include:
- Quad-boob: Breast tissue bulging over the top of the cups
- Gaping in the center: Breasts push cups away from the body
- Straps digging in: Too-small cups force straps to take on extra weight
- Cups sitting on breast tissue: Underwire not encasing all the breast tissue
Cups that are too small are usually caused by:
- Incorrect measuring: Adding inches to the underbust instead of using leaning bust measurement
- Wearing old size: Cups can become too small if breasts grow bigger
- Inaccurate sizing methods: Many fitting methods underestimate cup size
- Different breast shapes: Full-on-top or full-on-bottom breasts may need different cups
The cups are too big
Cups that wrinkle or gap away from the body often signal that the cups are too large. Other signs of too-big cups:
- Excess fabric: Wrinkled, loose fabric in the cups
- Underwire floating: Wire does not stay in place under breasts
- Straps slipping: Straps fall down without cup support
- Band riding up: Lack of cup support forces band up the back
The most common reasons for too-large cups are:
- Sizing methods overestimate: Adding 4-5 inches to underbust, for example
- Wearing the wrong shape: Shape mismatch can cause empty space in cups
- Weight loss: Cups become too large if breasts become smaller
- Breast changes: Shifts due to age, hormones, or pregnancy
The underwire pokes and digs
Underwires that poke, prod, and rub painfully against the ribcage are one of the top complaints about uncomfortable bras. Possible causes include:
- Incorrect cup size: Too-small cups force underwires onto breast tissue
- Wrong shape: Underwires designed for different breast shape
- Incorrect placement: Underwires sitting on breast root instead of encasing it
- Poor quality: Low quality materials and construction
- Band riding up: Wire gets pushed up from too-loose band
The straps are falling down
Slipping straps are both annoying and inconvenient. Reasons straps won’t stay up include:
- Too-big band: Loose band provides less support, more weight on straps
- Too-small cups: Breasts not filling cups fully so straps slide down
- Too widely-set straps: Better support comes from closer-set straps
- Heavy breasts: More breast weight can pull straps down
- Wrong size or shape: Improper fit causes straps to slip
The gore does not tack
The gore is the center part of the bra that connects the two cups. When a bra fits right, the gore will tack, or sit flat against the breastbone. If the gore floats or pops off the chest, potential causes are:
- Too-small cup size: Breasts push gore outward
- Too-large band: Gore has no anchor to tack against chest
- Wrong shape: Gore designed for different breast shape
- Center fullness: Excess fullness in center can prevent tacking
The band rides up
A creeping bra band that inches up your back is often a sign of an ill-fitting bra. Reasons for a riding bra band include:
- Too-big band: Band is loose and does not stay in place
- Too-small cups: Breasts push bra away from chest
- Damaged elastic: Old, worn-out bras lose elasticity
- Wrong size or shape: Improper fit leads to poor support
- Not fastening hooks: Starting on loosest hook allows for a snugger fit
Common breast shape issues
Beyond simply getting the size wrong, bra fit problems often stem from not finding the right shape for your breasts. The key aspects of shape are:
- Fullness: Whether breasts are fuller on top, bottom, evenly full, or have center fullness
- Root width: How narrow or broad the breast root is where the tissue attaches to chest
- Projection: Whether breasts stick out more or lay flatter against the chest
- Spacing: How far apart breasts are set on the chest
- Symmetry: Whether breasts are different sizes or shapes
Common shape mismatches include:
- Too-narrow underwires on broad roots cause bulging and poking
- Too-projected cups gap on shallower breasts
- Too-open cups cause gapping in close-set breasts
- Too-small cups overflow on fuller busts
- Full-coverage cups gape on top-heavy breasts
Finding your perfect fit is about identifying your breast characteristics and choosing styles to suit them. Bras are like shoes – the wrong shape will never fit right.
How to measure for bra size
Being sized incorrectly is one of the main reasons bras don’t fit properly. Using inaccurate fitting methods or outdated measurements will make finding the right size difficult. Here are some tips for taking your own measurements:
- Use a flexible tape measure for the most accuracy
- Wear a non-padded bra when measuring
- Measure underbust snugly, exhaling to get the band size
- Measure bust at fullest part, leaning over to get cup size
- Use UK sizing, which uses inches for bands and cup letters
- Size up in band and down in cup for comfort if between sizes
- Re-check measurements every 6 months in case of changes
Using your 6 measurements for bust, underbust, standing bust, and each breast will provide the most customizable sizing. Consider getting professionally fitted at a specialty bra shop once you have your measurements. Let them know what problems you’ve experienced and describe your shape for best results.
Tips for finding your perfect fit
Finding a bra that checks all the boxes for comfort, support, and style can seem impossible, but these tips will help you on your quest:
- Examine your current bras to identify fit issues
- Determine your breast shape and buy accordingly
- Always scoop and swoop when putting on bras
- Try unlined, soft cup bras to determine fit without padding
- Start on the loosest hooks of new bras for longevity
- Shop brands that cater to your shape (i.e full bust)
- Seek out bra fit experts, specialty shops, and fitters
- Be patient – finding the perfect fit takes trial and error!
When to replace your bras
Ill-fitting bras are often the result of wearing them past their prime. Bras stretch out over time and should be replaced every 6-12 months for best fit and support. Other signs it’s time to go bra shopping:
- Cups wrinkle or overflow
- Bands stretch more than 2 inches past their size
- Wires poke out of casing or fabric tears
- Elastic is loose, warped, or no longer stretches
- Straps fall down frequently or don’t adjust
- Hook fasteners won’t close or pop open
While some bras may last longer than a year if gently worn, err on the side of replacing them more frequently. Don’t resign yourself to uncomfortable bras simply because they still look intact. Remember, bras are elastic garments that lose function over time.
Other factors affecting bra fit
Along with getting the size and shape right, other factors influence how a bra fits:
Breast changes
Hormonal fluctuations, pregnancy, breastfeeding, weight changes, and aging all affect your breast size and shape. Get re-measured and re-fitted for bras whenever you go through these bodily changes.
Time of month
Fuller, more tender breasts around your period mean your normal bra may feel too tight temporarily. Having a bra extender handy or opting for a wireless style can help during this time.
Posture and muscle tone
A strong back, open chest posture, and toned pec muscles encourage better bra fit by keeping your shoulders back. Weak upper body support causes straps to strain.
Breast surgeries
Breast enhancement, reduction, and mastectomy procedures drastically alter your shape and measurements. Prior bras will likely no longer fit. Get fitted for new bras post-surgery.
Weight gain or loss
Body weight fluctuations affect your underbust more than bust size. Losing or gaining significantly impacts your band measurement.
Conclusion
Properly fitted bras provide beauty, confidence and comfort when they suit your size, shape and needs. By learning the common fit issues, measuring correctly, understanding your shape and replacing worn-out bras, you can narrow down the choices to find your perfect match. Don’t settle for less when it comes to your bras – a little effort goes a long way for such an important everyday garment!