Dry, flaky skin that just won’t hold onto moisture is a common complaint. There are many factors that can cause the skin’s natural barrier to break down, leading to transepidermal water loss and dryness. In this article, we’ll explore the most common reasons why skin won’t retain moisture and provide tips for repairing the skin barrier.
Skin Barrier Basics
The skin is the body’s largest organ and serves as the first line of defense against the external environment. The outermost layer of skin, known as the stratum corneum, acts as the skin’s barrier. Under normal conditions, the stratum corneum prevents excessive water loss from the deeper layers of skin while also keeping out irritants and allergens.
The stratum corneum is made up of corneocytes (dead skin cells) held together by lipids (ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol). This matrix of cells and lipids controls the flow of water and other substances in and out of the skin. When the skin barrier is damaged, water evaporates more rapidly from the skin’s surface leading to dryness, irritation, itching, and cracking.
Why Does the Skin Barrier Break Down?
There are several factors that can disrupt the stratum corneum and cause the skin to lose its ability to retain moisture:
Aging
As we get older, skin cell turnover slows down. Dead skin cells accumulate on the surface while lipid production declines. This leads to a weaker skin barrier.
Genetics
Some people are just born with naturally drier skin types. Genetic factors can determine how robust your skin barrier is and how prone your skin may be to water loss.
Weather
Cold, dry air in the winter can draw moisture away from the skin. Low humidity environments year-round also exacerbate dry skin.
Hard Water
Hard water with high mineral content could damage the skin barrier over time. The minerals deposit on the skin and disrupt the organization of lipids in the stratum corneum.
Over-cleansing
Vigorous scrubbing, soaps, and cleansing brushes strip away the skin’s natural oils. This compromises the skin barrier and removes protective lipids.
Harsh Ingredients
Ingredients like sulfates, fragrance, and alcohol damage the skin barrier when used excessively. These ingredients can dissolve the lipids that hold skin cells together.
Hot Showers
Extended hot showers and baths dehydrate the skin. The high temperatures break down lipids faster than they can be replenished.
How to Repair the Skin Barrier
The good news is that with the right skin care routine, you can strengthen your skin barrier and help your skin hold onto moisture. Here are some tips for repairing a compromised skin barrier:
Use Gentle Cleansers
Avoid foaming cleansers and scrubs. Instead, use a gentle, fragrance-free cleanser to wash your face once or twice a day. This will remove dirt and oil without disrupting your skin barrier.
Moisturize Immediately After Cleansing
Apply moisturizer to damp skin right after cleansing. This helps lock in hydration. Look for moisturizers with ceramides, fatty acids, hyaluronic acid, and glycerin.
Exfoliate Strategically
Use gentle chemical exfoliants like lactic acid and limit use to 1-2 times per week. This will slough off dead skin cells without damaging healthy ones.
Use Warm, Not Hot, Water
Stick to lukewarm water instead of hot, steaming showers and baths. Hot water strips the skin of natural oils.
Sleep With a Humidifier
Run a humidifier at night to counteract winter dryness or dry climates. This puts moisture back into the air so your skin doesn’t dry out overnight.
Avoid Fragrances
Steer clear of fragranced products. Dyes, fragrances, and perfumes can irritate the skin barrier.
Apply an Occlusive at Night
Seal in moisture at the end of your routine by applying an occlusive like petroleum jelly. This forms a protective barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss.
Take Lukewarm Showers
Stick to lukewarm water instead of hot, steaming showers and baths. Hot water strips the skin of natural oils.
Avoid Over-washing Skin
Don’t scrub or over-wash your skin. This can compromise your skin’s protective barrier. Limit cleansing to twice a day and use your hands instead of scrub brushes.
Choose Gentle Soaps
Pick a gentle cleanser that doesn’t strip away protective oils. Avoid bar soaps and opt for a fragrance-free body wash instead.
When to See a Dermatologist
If your skin still feels excessively dry, tight, or flaky despite your best moisturizing efforts, then it’s time to make an appointment with a board-certified dermatologist. A dermatologist can assess your skin barrier and determine if an underlying skin condition is the root cause of your dryness issues.
A dermatologist may prescribe special moisturizers, topical medications, or oral medications to repair the skin barrier from the inside out. For very damaged skin, a dermatologist may recommend in-office procedures like microneedling to stimulate new collagen production and strengthen the skin.
The Takeaway
A compromised skin barrier leads to dryness, flaking, irritation, and accelerated signs of aging. By understanding what damages the skin barrier and taking steps to nourish it, you can help your skin retain moisture and maintain a smooth, healthy appearance.
Be gentle with your skin care routine, avoid harsh ingredients, moisturize liberally, and protect your skin from moisture-sucking environments. Keep up this barrier-friendly regimen daily and your skin will thank you!